A Baoli mystery sparks early conservation effort

Nostalgia, history and a story engrained in mythology — Agrasen ki Baoli holds a special place not only in the history of Delhi, but also for millions of its residents. Non-ticketed entry, the baoli’s quaint charm, and its proximity to Connaught Place means students and tourists alike throng the heritage structure in heavy numbers daily.
A peculiar problem has emerged, however, at the Baoli located at Hailey Road along Kasturba Gandhi Marg. The water level in the step well, which has been steady for decades, has been rising for the past few years – and civic and archaeological experts have not been able to figure out why.
But this fluctuation in water level has prompted the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) to begin its routine restoration work ahead of schedule – the work will start in two months.
An ASI official, who asked not to be named, said that even around seven to eight years ago, the water was extremely shallow. “In the past two or three years, we’ve seen an abrupt rise in the water level. So much so, that the lower arches are now submerged in water. But so far, we don’t have a handle on what the source of the water is.”
The official added that ASI reached out to New Delhi Municipal Council (NDMC) – the civic agency responsible for upkeep of the New Delhi area – regarding any leakage of the drains that flow by the Baoli. “They assured us that there is no leakage so our priority right now is to de-silt the water and drain it out in order to locate the source of the water,” he added.
NDMC officials refused comment on the matter.
The structure, and restoration
The appeal of the Baoli, perhaps, lies in the silence of the structure. A flight of over 100 wide stairs, built with large stones, the gaps between which are now coloured green with moss, lead down to a pool of dark water – almost black, but not quite. The water lies still, and the wind above barely causes ripples, as a thick wall flanks the structure.
The wall has layers of blind arches, and adjacent to the entrance, at the southwest corner, is a small mosque.
The structure, though commonly known as the Agrasen ki Baoli, is listed as “Ugrasen ki Baoli” in the list of protected monuments under ASI.
An ASI official, part of the conservation project, said the first stage will involve de-silting the water, draining it, and then finding out the source of where the extra water is coming from.
“This will also allow us to do pointing work on the stone floor which is under water. Pointing work is basically plastering the rocks together, to make sure the structure stays stable,” the official said.
The plaster, he added, will be done with the materials that were used originally – lime, coarse sand, and surkhi.
Once the source of the water is ascertained, ASI will refill the pool. Regular drainage of the water, ASI officials said, might be arranged by making channels into the surrounding NDMC drains.
Another part of the project will deal with the bats that live inside the mosque-like structure. “There are thousands of bats inside. They damage the structure and pollute the water with their droppings. So, we will put up nets on the arched openings of the mosque to prevent the bats from going inside,” the official added.
Another senior ASI official said, “The project was also supposed to involve some repair work. The slab that runs above the arches in a continuous line on all three walls is partially broken. However, there is some fund crunch so we are hoping to take that up by next year.”
The ramps that line the walls at two levels of the arches, running from the stairs to the mosque and back, will be repaired in places. These ramps, according to ASI officials and caretakers of the structure at present, were once used by common people to walk across the baoli.
History and a folktale
According to a publication by Intach, Delhi Chapter, and authored by historian and writer Jutta Jain-Neubauer, this structure dates to 1506 CE.
The descending stairway, in four levels consisting of over 100 stairs, has a tapering structure, to support the firmness of the lengthy walls, said the article.
“The well and the basin are separated by an internal wall. The tower-like internal structure built above the basin is quite rare and unique because it is not open to the sky – as would usually be the case – but is covered by a massive and solid dome,” Neubauer writes.
The origins of the structure, however, remain partly unknown.
Historians believe the architecture of the monument suggests it was built in the late Sultanate period (late 15th century), though a common story is responsible for the origin of the baoli’s name.
According to writer and historian Sohail Hashmi, the story associated with the baoli dates back to the time of mythical King Agrasen, who finds mention in the Mahabharata as well.
The exact date of the events are not known.
“Agrasen fell in love with a princess, as did Lord Indra,” Hashmi said.
“However, Indra was angry and cursed the entire state with drought. Agrasen’s priest asked him to dig a well and to keep digging till he finds water. He dug this well, and on finding water, there was rain. It is said that the descendants of Agrasen later built the step well.”
Hashmi, however, refuted the possibility of the story, even if the supernatural details are omitted. “The structure is built with rubble, held together by crushed bricks and limestone. This technique was introduced after 1193 CE, during the reign of Qutb-ud-Din Aibak (1206-1210). Before that, cut stones were fitted together,” he said.
Jain-Neubauer also wrote along the same lines, “The side walls are strengthened by internal constructions … very similar to such motifs in contemporary mosque architecture… there is a mosque, very similar to other step wells built with Islamic patronage…”
The baoli was used by the people of the settlements around it, outside the walls of the then Shahjahanabad, to swim, wash clothes, and do daily chores.
According to historians, the water was originally almost 10 feet deep and would contribute to the subsoil water of the area, as the water from monsoon would accumulate and seep into the rock beds beneath, thus making sure that water could be drawn through the well throughout the year, even in times of shortage.
But as a modern, and most glittering side to Delhi grew around it, the charm of the Baoli today resides in the contrast it offers from the world immediately outside – high-rises around Kasturba Gandhi Marg and Barakhamba Roads flank the structure.
A slice of blue sky visible from the stairway, the arches reflected in the water and the chattering of the bats echoing within the walls adds to the mysterious character to the structure – enough to be spun into mythical stories and modern memories.